anita in seoul

"Millions of Kimchi"

2012-02-06T13:59:00.002+09:00

[and now, for guest post by Dan, one of my partners in crime in Seoul. He was lucky enough to witness kimchi, live in the act of making.]

“Millions of peaches, peaches for me, Millions of peaches, peaches for free”

… if the Presidents of the USA were a Korean band, they would have written about kimchi, not peaches… “Millions of kimchi, kimchi for free” (though they’d probably have a different band name too). So so much kimchi, and always for free.

It was a nice distraction during my final week in Seoul to witness the making of a batch of kimchi right
out my apartment window. The owner of the restaurant that was making it is a very well respected
woman in the neighborhood, so it appeared that many people came out to help in the process. I feel
fortunate to have become friends with her. Even though we could not talk to each other, we seemed to
have been able to communicate successfully. She took good care of me, I’ll always be grateful for her
kindness.

I like kimchi, though I have become slightly picky, as each restaurant’s is a little bit different, so some I
find more to my tasting. As I always have at least one bite of the various banchans provided, I always
finished my kimchi. It will be interesting to see how I find the taste of kimchi back in the USA.

All these awesome photos courtesy of Dan.

Back in STL - Seoul Exhibition

2012-02-06T13:49:00.005+09:00

Whew.

That's all i have to say to sum up that last few weeks. Even before school started, I was already in full gear, trying to finish up loose ends of the studio project from Seoul. I was instructed to rebuild my physical model (there was no way I was going to opt to ship it all the way from Korea... very unlikely foamcore would travel well). So, like a lemming, I convinced myself that I HAD to build a new one...so I did. Not quite sure if the labor was worth it, but it did come out decent.

Here are some photos of the exhibit that was in Givens Hall.

What a wonder korean characters do to a intro board

Dan pondering over Natasha's project

I'll have some model photos once I get my model back from administration.

Back Stateside -- Honey Pig

2012-01-01T00:31:00.000+09:00

Last night I ventured with friends (and Living Social voucher) to the Honey Pig in Ellicott City. I'm still in the afterglow of a great four months in Korea, so of course, I was a skeptic.

Before we walked in, the groups of people waiting were bursting out the door! Me having #gradstudentproblems, mumbled, "If this was Korea, we'd just walk to the place next door." Of course it was because Honey Pig sold a ridiculous amount of discount vouchers, but also because Honey Pig is now known for THE place to eat BBQ in the DC/Maryland/Virginia area.

Verdict: the place was delicious. I will always love a place with delicious pork belly. I was in great company with two good friends, so the time was well spent on eating meat and dishing dirt.

The Pros:

1) MEAT. Grilled. Duh!

2) It's open 24 Hours.

3) There's Korean beer! Yay, more Cass!!

4) the exhaust system seems to work more than the ones did in Seoul. I did the sniff test on my clothes after, and it wasn't too bad!

But... being fresh out of Korea, there were some cons:

1) They don't let you cut and cook your own meat! (I do understand it's probably better this way since some people don't know how to properly man the griddle...but still.... i would have liked the option to DIY)

2) The line was horrendous. We waited like 40 minutes for a table (Ok, they made bank doing that living social deal... and apparently they give 25% off the entire bill if the Redskins win.)

3) The location is in a strip mall. The great thing about the BBQ places in Seoul were that they were smack dab in the middle of the city, so you can stumble out of dinner and down the street to a bar afterwards.

4) The sparse banchan... left so much more to be desired. what happened to the mounds and mounds of kimchi and seasoned bean sprouts! They don't serve their korean peppers whole -- they're sliced.

5) No wet naps?! Koreaaaaa, come back to me. Those were the best things ever / no-brainers for a restaurant where you eat with your hands.

Again, I am being too critical. It was a delicious BBQ meal, and just makes me reflective of the awesome culinary times I had. Can't wait to do it again. I need to brush up on my korean food words again!

From Bojagi to Model

2011-12-17T03:17:00.000+09:00

Bojagi: wrapping cloth

I told myself I'd make more models in Grad school. As of yet, I never really gave myself the time to invest in a quality physical model. Which is why I told myself I couldn't wuss out on the 1/50 sectional model we were "required" to complete for our final review.

For those non-architecture, 1/50 means 1/2 centimeter = 1 meter. Which means, big model.

My project was inspired by the traditional korean dress, the hanbok, as well as the korean quiltwork, jogakbo. Themes included use of crease, seams, and folding to create an envelope that wraps the site. This wrapping was inspired by the bojagi, which koreans use as a utilitarian way to wrap objects for transport, storage, or gift wrapping (sometimes a jogakbo is the bojagi wrapper).

the traditional hanbok

jogakbo = jogak (pieces) + bo (cloth)

bojagi

Here are photos of some process...


folding / creasing a flat plane

sewing fabric in different jogakbo seams

Older process model, made after midreview

Consulting the digital model

Roof Terrace

Final Review

2011-12-17T01:11:00.002+09:00

There are a few basic rules of studio I always try to tell myself to keep no matter what:

1) Always maintain a regular shower regimen. No one likes greasy hair (among other things)

2) Try to get sleep every day. Yes, naps (meaning 0-3 hrs of sleep) do count.

3) Always leave studio before the sun rises.

Well, at least I kept up with rules #1 & 3. The day of final review, I had been up for around 36 hours already, and running on adrenaline. I promised myself I'd finish that 1/50 scale model before I went home, which I did. I walked home a few hours before review to accomplish Rule #1, and eat. I had thoroughly impressed myself with how I had survived in the past three weeks with such lack of sleep, and I must admit, I was getting delirious towards the last night, especially when I was the only one left in studio.

I was third to present, and I presented without coffee coursing through my veins, which was surprising to me. My tactic to stay awake was not to wear a jacket. It was bloody freezing in the presentation space (Koreans, ever heard of proper insulation?!?). After taping (masking tape, classy) my boards to the wall, my brain went dead. I couldn't seem to mentally prepare my thoughts, so I said to myself, "I guess I'm winging this thing again."

Somehow I pulled it off because afterwards my professor said to me," I don't know how you pulled it off, but you did!" Comments from the jury were all positive; and I was glad I made that big model. It's good to finally get an overall good review after a blood-sweat-tears kind of semester.

Me trying to gather my thoughts

Showing my stitchwork, done with lack of sleep

One happy Seoul studio (afterwards of course)

Our last time at the Black Tent

After BBQ we walked to another place to have drinks. On the way, I walked beside Junsung and asked him if he was going to miss us American kids.

He replied: "Oh yes, or course. My body will not have the ability to NOT miss you all. You know, before you guys came, I was really discouraged with teaching the Korean students. They aren't easily self-inspired or self-motivated; it's really hard to teach them. After teaching you guys, I have more of a motivation and inspiration to keep teaching."

I was really moved by that. Junsung is usually a very dramatic person when it comes to expressing his feelings about architecture and whatnot, but I really felt that he was being really candid. I'm glad we could affect a professor just as much as they have affected us.

Meat Buffet and Black Market Books

2011-12-10T09:24:00.001+09:00

It definitely wasn't the typical finals week. It of course included sleep deprivation, malnourishment and lots of caffeine, but it also had it's surprise perks, such as going to the all-you-can-eat meat buffet with my professor and his korean students, and of course, the best thing of all, the korean "bookstore."

Here we are at the "Self Bar", what they call the all you can eat meat bar. The meat cuts aren't the greatest, but it fits the hungry korean college male student's needs. The kid in the blue puffy jacket (never did remember his name) was literally inhaling the meat.

Another night, we meet up with the "Book Guy." One of our korean student friends has the hook up, and just calls a guy. The guy comes at night in his SUV, backs into the loading area (or parking lot) and opens his back trunk and BAM! Christmas came early for us architecture nerds.

Nope. Not sketchy at all. White SUVs mean safety.

Yep, maybe we were a little excited. and all got Phylogenesis.

Korean Thanksgiving

2011-11-25T13:54:00.001+09:00

NOTE: I am horrendously behind on posts, so bear with me. Let's travel back to Thanksgiving....
________
After classes, we hopped on the train to have dinner at our professor's apartment. His wife was so kind as to cook every single dish. I felt kind of bad because our one task was to find a turkey, and we failed on that account. We were counting on the service that Yongsan Military Base used to have, which was selling roasted turkeys at the base gate for outsiders to pick up. Well, apparently, they discontinued that service in 2009, and the other option of ordering from a hotel was too expensive and too short of notice.

As we entered the apartment, we were welcomed with the wafting smells of bulgogi. We had tons of other great korean food, including japchae, kimbap, fried seaweed, chicken skewers, among other things. The professors were bringing out the big guns -- Junsung with delicious french wine, and Mark with a spanish (read: molotov) cocktail.

Cheers to the cook, Junsung's wife!

The Three Stooges

Marc's Spanish drink: 2 bottles of rum + lemon peel, cinnamon stick, coffee beans. Lit on FIRE!

The bowl cracked under the heat... so we salvage the liquor by siphoning it through a cheescloth

...and then used a cooking pan instead. architects are dumb.

full from korean goodness + french wine + spanish liquor concoction

massage train! Our goofy professors in the front

This meal was exaclt what I needed to get through the rest of the semester. At one part of the meal I was chatting with Junsung, our korean professor, and he was reminiscing about his time with Alvaro Siza. He said that Siza was asked, "Do you love architecture?", to which he responded with a reaction like "Love? Love is a strong word. I don't Love architecture. I like architecture sometimes...Man doesn't exist for architecture. Architecture exists for man."

Junsung said it meant that architecture shouldn't be your life -- it shouldn't be the all-consuming, end-all THING that is the only thing that matters. How then can we even enjoy what we are pouring our efforts in for our entire lives? How can we enjoy our life? So, in order to enjoy architecture (or anything you have a passion for really) you need to not have it be your LIFE.

This is expecially true now that I am in Seoul; it's been clearer to be since I am geographically away from St. Louis. If I constantly remind myself this everyday, I think it would be a great, constantly humbling thing that brings be back to earth. I think we all get caught up in this academic bubble of working nonstop for some convoluted goal of "finishing" a project without even enjoying the process itself.

T-Minus 11 Days Left

2011-11-25T13:30:00.001+09:00

Yesterday was Thanksgiving, but it didn't feel like it, mainly because we had two classes. It's my first time in my life that I have been apart from my family on Thanksgiving. It's kind of sad, but in a way I am relieved because the pressures that loom during the thanksgiving holiday during school is usually immense; there's always that inner struggle of whether to go home, and if you go home, will there be time to get work done?

My crits with Junsung in the past weeks have been interesting. I think he is a great person to talk to, and you immediately feel his passion for architecture, especially the sensuality of it. This week there were tons of changes that he told me I should consider. I'm usually calm through my crits, but I was at a breaking point. This was last Tuesday.

Jun: "You should really change this part right here... and here... and here... and it would be really wonderful if you...add secret stair...moonbounce..." (secret stair, yes... moonbounce..i wish)
Me: "TOO LATE JUN! Too late for changes!"
Jun: "No, it's not too late. You have three more weeks."
Me: "Are you crazy?! We have a week and a half!"
Jun: "Oh...well you should change it. And take this stair out. It sucks. It reallllly sucks. I never liked it."
Me:"Why didn't you tell me two weeks ago??" Sighs. "Yes, I guess you are right."

I never like to hide within any bad project, to I bit the bullet and made the changes, which of course made my project better. I hate when people hide from their professors because they might "change everything." Isn't this why we are all slaving away in architecture ~~prison~~ school to begin with? Make ourselves better designers?

Anyways, yesterday's crit with Jun gave me some hope. After I showed him some changes, he says--

Jun: "Your project is really developing nicely. If you had three more weeks, it would be really fantastic."
Me: "Yeah...but I don't."
Jun: "I know. I know."
Me: "Thank you?"

Another post to follow about Thanksgiving dinner!

Going Vegetarian

2011-11-22T11:18:00.001+09:00

I think it can be extremely challenging to be a vegetarian in a place where culture is formed around barbequing meat, but I think it is possible.

After a field trip by Donguk University, our professor treated us to a traditional vegetarian feast. It was the most banchan I have had yet in Korea, and it was amazing! I think I counted almost 60 different bowls and plates on the table.

Some of the food included a sesame porridge, leek and kimchi pancakes, japchae, fried lotus root, make-your-own bibimbap, tofu soup, etc. The meal was ended with delicious ginger tea.

Koreans and Coffee Shops

2011-11-20T18:37:00.001+09:00

Koreans are serious about coffee --- at least that's what they want to be seen as. Coffee shops are "all the rage", and saying that they are a trend is conveying the craze too lightly.

Of course there is the obligatory Starbucks, Dunkin Dunuts, and even Mister Donut (a super throwback that I remember was around in the States in the 80's). Then there are the coffee shops that swear they brew authentic italian and french roasts, and have the Italian & french names. There is apparentely a bakery war going on between the two main "french"y bakeries in Korea: Tous Les Jours vs. Paris Baguette. Apparently, back in January of this year, a baker at Tous Les Jours that was going bankrupt tried a last ditch effort to bring down its competitor across the street, Paris Baguette, by baking a dead rat in a loaf of bread...

She really likes baguettes.

Tous Les Jours is bringing in the superpowers of Korean Drama and KPop as leverage...

Actress Ku Hye Sun & Popstar Rain, matching of course

C'mon. Rain wants to eat a donut. He promises the calories don't count.

I must say, both places do well on the pastries. Almost too good.

Aside from the coffee shops itself, let me get to the real reason why I'm writing this post in the first place.

Whenever I'm sitting in a coffee shop doing some work (taking a breather from studio), I happen to always observe Koreans and their unique behavior. First of all, they do not treat cafes and coffee shops as Americans do -- American students go to the coffee shop to get a calm ambiance with coffee and light jazz floating through the air, promoting optimum productivity for a college student. A korean student treats the coffee shop as two things: 1) a bar, where you gather with your friends and gab and chatter loudly and smoke while listening to loud-ass pop music, and 2) a place to lovingly stare into your significant other's eyes for hours while sipping frappaccinos and taking photos of each other.

But today, I witness the most annoying thing...

This guy and his friends are taking photos of the coffee and the pastries they just bought... for 20 minutes. Okay, I admit, i take photos of most meals I've had here, but this was just absurd. So, of course, I had to take a picture of the asian guy taking a picture of the food. I thought I was being super slick holding up my phone acting like was texting.

And then after 20 minutes, they got up, and moved to another table. I'm thinking, "what? they need better light or something? what creeps."

...and then I realized there was a mirror behind me.

Who's the creep now?

The Fascination with Trash and Old People

2011-11-16T09:22:00.001+09:00

I present to you one of Korea's cultural phenomenons -- the fascination with trash. And old people. Mostly the "Ajuma" (old woman) are the ones always crouching down in the streets, collecting trash.

Here is what surprises me everyday about the trash situation in Seoul --

1) The Bar Scene: at night, trash and call girl cards are strewn about all over the streets (not to mention vomit and other questionable things)... but in the morning, the old people are up by 7am and picking up the trash with their brooms and bare hands. I'm pretty sure not all of them are hired by the government.

2) The Leaves: ever since the first foliage fall, every single day, every single wind blow, they are there to sweep it up. They also love to collect the stinky gingko fruit, too. Not quite sure what they do with it.

3) Trash Day: Usually every trash day, while I am walking out the door to class or out for a run, there's always an ajuma rustling in the back of our building, opening knotted trash bags in search for any treasures. They're mostly looking for cardboard, which I think they can turn in and receive money depending on the weight.

While walking to school one morning last week, I found the ultimate Ajuma, on a mission:

Oh, probably the trashman doing his rounds already...

Hmm...it's no trashman... this ajuma's been busy, and she just found the cardboard motherload

These old people on a mission are usually equipped with these makeshift carts where they tie the cardboard they collect on the street. They're Public Enemy #2 after Taxi trivers, in that they will run over you with their carts and keep it moving.

I guess it's a good system for free street-cleaning services, but I always wonder why these old people are just so bored that this is what consumes their time.

Happy Millennium Pepero Day!

2011-11-12T08:53:00.001+09:00

In celebration of 11/11/11, Korea celebrated Millennium Pepero Day! Usually every year on 11/11, Lotte invented this holiday as a marketing scheme to shamelessly promote the sales of Pepero, the delicious chocolate pretzel stick snack. It's Korean's version of Pocky, which is the original Japanese snack. It's a huge craze over this stuff. People are even in the street selling Pepero-shaped pillows.

It's best equated to Valentine's Day, where everyone is pressured to buy these sweets for their friends and sweethearts. Everywhere I looked, there were stands with elaborate displays of Pepero.

Some people say that Koreans are obsessed with the 11/11 holiday because of good luck of course, but also they love couples events, and love the number 1. One is the skinniest number, and koreans always love to be number 1 ranking in everything.... not exactly sure about that analysis, but I know they are all suckers for marketing schemes. I took a iPad survey, just to get a free box...

I wanted a bigger box, but this will do

Seoul Lantern Festival

2011-11-11T00:23:00.001+09:00

Every year, Seoul pulls of a great lantern festival. Large lanterns are lit up and positioned on the water of the Cheonggycheon (as I have written about earlier). This year's theme for the lanterns were "Moments in History." It was great to see such a beautiful site, and it was a great excuse to take a break from work.

The big Haechi, the new mascot of Seoul

Most famous lantern of the show was Gwanghamun, one of the 5 imperial gates

Plugged in on the Seoul Subway

2011-11-05T20:55:00.001+09:00

When I first came to Korea, I was so shocked at how everyone is so obsessed with their mobile phones and ipods. I thought America was bad.

Everyone usually has two devices -- cell phone, and ipod. I have never ridden the subway without seeing someone with their phones out, furiously texting, or totally engrossed with korean TV. Most phones used here come with a retractable antenna (this is the 21st century, right?) to catch the signal of free TV. Someone could be watching korean drama, catching up with the stock exchange, or watching a basebal game.

This is a pretty typical sight when I ride the subway. This photo might not look bad, but image the entire train cabin looks like this.

These people are practically zombies -- I've seen people board and leave a train without taking their eyes off their phones!

But I do admit, I catch myself whipping out my IPhone as well as pulling out my korean cell phone at the same time to return a text. What am I turning into?!

Fall in Seoul!

2011-11-05T20:47:00.000+09:00

Fall is officially in full swing, but it doesn't feel like it. It was chilly when we came back from our trip to Japan a few weeks ago, but the temperature has risen back up to what we'd expect in early September. We've been averaging a mild 70-73F temperature with hardly any rain, so I guess I shouldn't complain!

One thing that I'm missing from this fall -- the vibrant orange and reds that I see back home and in St. Louis. Most of the trees on campus are gingkos, which change to yellow.

The allee of trees that I walk through everyday to class

Heading to the arch bldg!

Here's a look at the outdoor walkway where people congregate; this is the old people loitering spot.

"They see me rollin, they hatin"

"Deloris! We were supposed to match from top to bottom today! You forgot the visor!"

Changing of the Guards

2011-11-05T20:35:00.000+09:00

On our way to a field trip, we happened upon the changing of the guards ceremony at one of the gates at Geongbuk Palace. I've been wanting to go see this since I got to Korea, and it was even better that we saw it by accident. We walked by towards the end, when the guards had been swapped out and the relieved guards were marching back.

Weird Signs in Tokyo

2011-11-05T20:30:00.000+09:00

Here's a few pictures of the interesting signs we saw in Tokyo. In Seoul we see some pretty random public signs and advertisements, but it seems that the Japanese like to have fun with their signs.

We shouldn't be smoking on the train anyway right?

Not quite sure what you may drop when you risk walking and smoking at the same time...

the walk home from studio

2011-11-02T01:30:00.000+09:00

I guess I'm usually too preoccupied in my head to enjoy the walk home from studio in the middle of the night, but tonight, there seemed to be something charming in the air about it.

Maybe it was also me re-evaluating in my head exactly how long I've been in Seoul -- It's been about 2-1/2 months... which may not seem so much to you, but to me, it feels like it was eons since I was soaking in the sun in Thailand.

So I pack up my things as my eyes droop, and start the journey home. The sky has the weird purple tint to it again, but I don't bother taking a picture because no photo I've taken thus far has given it justice. There's someone lurking in the shadows, but then it turns out that it's one of those goofy night security guys picking something off the ground and muttering to himself. I decide to take the quieter way home, the back alleys where it seems everyone is asleep. It's dark, quiet, and a person or two walking. And then I think to myself, once I go back home to the states, there probably will be no other place where I can walk home without any fear of things lurking in the shadows (St. Louis? You can forget about it.)

The usual stray cat scurries by; a guy with headphones in is standing and searching for his keys (i'm thinking, i could mug this guy he is so vulnerable), and then I pass our corner store, where, under the lamplight, the middle-aged men are gathered around the red plastic lawn furniture, smoking, and talking about something intriguing. As I round the corner to the apartment, I hear the echos of hiccuping coming down the street. It's a businessman with his briefcase, staggering, stopping, staggering, and hiccuping loud enough that it's starting to echo down the street. All this goes on as some young girl is leaned on the side of my apartment, seeming like she doesn't notice the hiccuping man, but rather is whispering into her cell phone.

And then I'm home. Whoa, I'm home.

Shibuya: Busiest Intersection in the World

2011-10-31T21:40:00.001+09:00

Let's do the Shibuya Scramble!

I took this from the Starbucks across the street from the Shibuya subway station.

Here's a short clip that shows you how the madness is on the street:

Tokyo: Architecture Role Call

2011-10-31T21:33:00.002+09:00

In wrapping up my posts for Japan, Tokyo was by far the finale. First, I eat what may be the best sushi of my life, and then in the course of two days, I see so much architecture by so many designers that I look up to, it's so crazy. I must admit, I was architectured out. I guess it's always the case with too much of a good thing.

It's too bad a lot of these buildings' charm lies on the inside, which we didn't not get to experience in most of them. We went to a lot of the big fashion streets; it seemed like we were doing the ultimate window shopping, but hunting for buildings, not necessarily clothes (not that we could afford anything there anyway, seeing as Omotesando Street is like Fifth Avenue compacted together).

Nakagin Capsule Tower (Kisho Kurokawa)

This was the first capsule tower that was designed, built, and still in use today as an apartment. The capsules were made to be moveable and restackable, but they never were reconfigured from their initial placement.

Next, we headed to the shopping streets, Ginza.

Small pictures, clockwise from left: 1) Hermes (Renzo Piano), 2) Mikimoto (Toyo Ito), 3) Burberry (?), 4) Tiffany & Co. (Kengo Kuma)

National Museum of Western Art. My first Le Corbusier building!!

The last of the Ando projects: (Left) International Library of Children's Literature; addition to old library from 1929; (right) Omotesando Hills Shopping Mall.

What was a furniture store is now a classy underwear store (Tadao Ando)

Trust me, there's some architecture under there. Don't let Hello Kitty fool you. (Kazuyo Sejima)

My favorite: Tod's (SANAA)


Last, but not least, the Prada Aoyama Store (Herzog & Demeuron).

We were greeted by a suited doorman, walked around on their white plush carpets (in squishy wet shoes from the rain), took some illegal photos, and rolled out. They hated us.

...and yes, of course I used the bathroom. They even have diamond-shaped trashcans...

Tokyo: Tsukiji Fish Market

2011-10-28T18:14:00.002+09:00

Sushi for breakfast? YES, please.

Okay, foodies, wake up. I know I've been posting my head off about architecture lately, but now I am going to redeem myself.

We arrived in Tokyo October 20th, and decided that that famous fish market was our first destination. At this point we were architecture-ed out. We weren't hardcore enough to wake up and get to Tsukiji Fish Market at 5am to see the tuna auction, but we did wake up in time to get a spot in like for sushi for breakfast.

During the ~2 hour wait, I meandered through the fish market ---

At 9am, the craziness has started to die down. Fish are being packed and shipped.

What's crazy is, although there's fish everywhere, the place smelled surprisingly un-fishy. As if the fish was so fresh, it wasn't fishy. I was expecting the smell when you walk by NYC Chinatown, where the sidewalks are washed with fish guts.

This crab didn't stand a chance. Poor thing, battered alive, still moving.

I head back to our spot in line at Sushi Dai, which is supposedly the best-kept secret at Tsukiji. It's not in the American tourist books (it may be in the chinese ones...) but he heard of it through word of mouth, the best way to get delicious food. When you see japanese businessmen with their luggage waiting in line, you know it's worth the wait.

The velvet ropes...for only a part of the line; the rest wrapped around the block.

FINALLY! We got in! Higher wooden ledge is your "plate" where they place the sushi.

Now, let me just say, before I came to Asia, I absolutely HATED sushi. I hated the fishy aftertaste, the idea of eating raw fish, everything... I know, a very un-asian characteristic (along with no skill for playing any musical instrument). But then I discovered how delicious tuna was. And then, I went to Tsukiji.

I documented in sequence each delicious morsel, but can't remember exactly which fish was what. Here's what I remember:

1) Tuna (fatty)
2) Yellowtail?
3) ?

4) Spanish mackerel

5) Tuna (lean)

6) ?

[breathe]

7) tekkamacki - tuna rolls

8) tamago - sweet egg custard

9) japanese eel

When I ate the last one, the eel, my tastebuds were very happy. I literally left there smiling, it was so damn good.

What a way to take Tokyo by storm!

The Japan Chronicles: Yokohama

2011-10-28T17:26:00.001+09:00

[disclaimer: sorry for all of the delays of posts! It's been a busy week getting back in gear with school and studio, but I've found some time to get a couple more posts out. Thanks for being patient!]

[October 20, 2011] Enroute to Tokyo, we stopped at Yokohama to see a few sites.

Mt. Fuji from the train

We went to see the Yokohama Ferry Terminal by FOA, built in 2002. What's interesting about this project is that it seems to want to be an extension of the land rather than an object that was pier-like. Some things that failed in my mind were the handrails on the roof deck that were truly eyesores that interrupted the flowing wooden surfaces.

Aerial view

View of Yokohama by the terminal

Last Night in Kyoto

2011-10-24T23:53:00.002+09:00

We went to Gion in search for chopsticks and geisha, both of which we did not find. But we did find a beautiful part of Japan that we had been waiting to find since the beginning of this trip -- a place that genuinely felt like Japan.

Alleyways in the Gion

Life-sized stuffed animals for each of the short girls:

I ate blowfish! and lived to tell about it.

The Japan Chronicles: Nara

2011-10-24T23:47:00.001+09:00

From Kyoto, we took a day trip to Nara, one of Japan's most ancient cities.

Five-Story Pagoda

Deer are all over Nara, it's become their mascot

How to avoid deer attack

more deer. gross.

Nandaimon (North Gate to Todai-ji)

Please carry your terrier

Todai-ji (Eastern Great Temple)

Back to Osaka for Ando

2011-10-24T23:32:00.002+09:00

Though we already made our way to Kyoto, we just had to come back towards Osaka so we could see Tadao Ando's Church of Light. Built in 1989 in Ibaraki, just outside of the Osaka city proper, this church was one of Ando's more well known early works. The main concrete shell is 15" thick.

"In all my works, light is an important controlling factor... I create enclosed spaces mainly by means of thick concrete walls. The primary reason is to create a place for the individual, a zone for oneself within society. When the external factors of a city's environment require the wall to be without openings, the interior must be especially full and satisfying."

Entryway

Chapel

Chapel, looking the other way

Large sliding door to chapel

Sunday School Hall, ceiling

concrete sandwich

The Japan Chronicles: Kyoto

2011-10-24T23:18:00.001+09:00

Kyoto was also a surprise, just as Osaka was. When we emerged from the train station, we were met with another hodgepodge modernized city. We went in search for the historical sites.

Ryoanji Temple - Rock Garden

The rock garden is composed of 15 rocks -- it is said that one seeks enlightenment from humanity and suffering if they can see all rocks with their naked eye. It is only humanly possible to see 14 of the 15 rocks at a glance. So, we have to accept our humanity as it is...or something like that.

Rock Garden

The next day, we went to Kinkaku-ji (Golden Pavilion).

It was first built as a "retirement home" of sorts for a statesman named Saionji Kintsune; it was later purchased by a shogun family. It was originally only painted in gold leaf on the third floor; in 1950, it was burned to the ground by a young monk. When the pavilion was restored, all levels were made golden.

And around the town of Kyoto:

The hotel's cute little kid

Udon man

Place we had dinner

The Japan Chronicles: Osaka

2011-10-24T22:58:00.000+09:00

Next city after Naoshima - Osaka.

Osaka was a weird city for me -- before I left for Japan, people said it was an artsy part of Japan, with galleries and things like that. I assumed it was a commercialized city, but the foreign influences on it were apparent everywhere. Our professors were with us for one night, and left the next morning, so we had to figure out our own itinerary.

In a hodgepodge two days, we ate italian food, rode a ferris wheel, went to the aquarium, and watched a kid's dance competition. Not the typical experience for what I thought my 3rd day in Japan would be, but we made it work.

We stayed at Bonsai Guest House (highly recommended), which has a bonsai garden on the roof!

Next day, Osaka Castle.

"What's my secret? Inverted push-ups by the castle, of course."

View from the Ferris Wheel

Before the ferris wheel and the aquarium, we took a break in the food court...

Black Sesame Soft Serve Ice Cream. Delicious!

and happened upon a dance competition--

Spotted these gems while waiting in line for my ice cream...

Yes. That is weave...and..hip hop attire.

Be careful, i hear they will steal your ice cream

The Japan Chronicles: Naoshima

2011-10-24T01:39:00.000+09:00

Our first night in Japan, we landed in Takamatsu -- expecting to experience a capsule hotel, but found out that females aren't allowed! The morning after, we took a trek to the island of Naoshima to start off our architectural trek (read: Ando Mania). We docked at the Naoshima Ferry Terminal, done by SANAA (more stunning photos/plans here.)

We redeemed our hotel flop by staying in a yurt.

After dropping off our bags, we immediately ran to see the museums. Naoshima houses a complex of contemporary art museums, part of the Benesse family, designed by japanese architect Tadao Ando, and they include: Chichu ("in the earth") Art Museum, Lee Ufan Gallery, Benesse House, and Oval House. We had the pleasure of seeing all but the last one, and they all were truly breaktaking.

1) Chi Chu Art Museum

Walter De Maria exhibit

coffee break

2) Lee Ufan Gallery

3) Benesse House

...and back at the yurt grounds...

rocky beach by the yurts

Konichiwa!

2011-10-22T08:07:00.001+09:00

After midreview, we took a long vacation to Japan for 10 days-- I'm writing to you on the 9th day. We are currently in Tokyo now; I'm glad we ended our trip this way.

In 10 days we have gone to 7 cities: Takamatsu, Naoshima, Osaka, Kyoto, Nara, Yokohama, and now Tokyo. It's sort of backwards from what a normal tourist would do, but then again a bunch of architects aren't a bunch of normal tourists (we may be more annoying though, taking pictures in galleries where no photos are allowed...but we are students still so it's ok, right?)

Since we have already been in Seoul for 2 months, we have seemed to OD on the traditional ancient architecture...although we did see ancient temples and shrines in Nara and Kyoto, I think I was too tired and burnt out to fully appreciate them. We've seen some amazing modern architecture here, especially some of the best works of Tadao Ando as well as some works by Kenzo Tange, Kengo Kuma, and Toyo Ito. I keep hearing my professor say while we were in Osaka: "No more Ando! it's too much. See something else." So funny coming from an architect.

Anyway, more details and photos to come once I land back in Seoul tomorrow.

Midreview

2011-10-12T11:45:00.005+09:00

Midreview was yesterday -- still reeling from it, and also pep talking myself into believing there is still a project to move forward with. I hope my brain can keep up and process all the feedback, which they keep saying that I have all the materials, I just have to execute!

My actual process is for a future blog post -- here is a taste of what went on yesterday:

Our boards (hurray for free printing -- we practically have a plotter per person)

Sam starts us up strong

I was second. [Picture to come]

Evan and his audience

Dan's presentation -- where are the female critics?

Lydia doin her thang

Natasha at the end --- and SHK shows up

BBQhappytime

Cafe after BBQ... But, a "bahn" does mean a half...

Meet Bahn, gatekeeper. "I just got hit by a car yesterday. do NOT "shi bal" with me."

What is with Koreans and Hoegaarden?

Isaac Toast to the Rescue

2011-10-12T09:11:00.000+09:00

A recap from yesterday:

It's been probably a week since I've gotten a decent night's rest. Midreview is in 6 hours, so after I plot, I tell myself to go take a nap at home, and wake up, finish my slide presentation, and go to school. I haven't slept in about 30 hrs, but all I can think of is getting an Isaac Toast sandwich. There's really no breakfast sandwich area anywhere, so Isaac has been my go-to for the cheese-egg-ham sammie.

At 830am, finally leaving the hole

Me, zombie-like, thinking, "Want...Isaac.."

Patiently waiting for my egg to be made

Perfection in a To-Go Napkin/Cardboard

It's a unique type of egg-ham-cheese sandwich: the egg is scrambled with carrots and corn, and while the bread is toasted with a hunking Costco-sized stick of butter, they apply this weird garlic jam to the toast before adding the egg and ham. The jam gives it this unique sweet (yet savory) taste -- some of us don't like it, but I actually do! Isaac is a fixture of Korea, but I recently read that because of it's popularity, they've branched out and have a post in LA now.

That sandwich hit the spot, so much so, that I slept two hours more than I wanted. Luckily I woke up an hour before midreview. I'm sure it was the Isaac =)

Kyeongbokgung - Palace at Night

2011-10-12T07:56:00.001+09:00

This past week was the review crunch -- for those non-architectural, it's what normal people call Midterms; for us, it's the progress point (or at least that's the idea...) So, of course I thought, what better time than to see a palace during midreview worktime!

I had a pseudo-epiphany: I'm in Korea, and I haven't done any sightseeing in a week. For a project. Something is wrong here. The voice in my head: " I will not let the architecture man bring me down!" So, when I heard there was a chance to see one of the palaces at night, I jumped on it.

Natasha and I went to Kyeongbokgung, the main palace of the five grand palaces of the Joseon Dynasty in Seoul. We only saw a little of the palace complex before we had to head back to studio. SO worth going, even though we had no time to spare.

Hyeungnyemun Gate

Main Hall

Gyeonghoeru - Palace Pavilion

Gwanghwamun - Main Gate of the Palaces (South)

Ramen Socks

2011-10-07T02:03:00.000+09:00

Of course, only in Korea would I not only find my favorite ramen, but to also find it as SOCKS.

Whoever designed these really took some liberty in interpreting the ramen in their own way...

Peculiar Seoul Finds: Part 1

2011-10-07T02:00:00.001+09:00

We are now in the midst of the Midreview crank, but I wanted to take a break and post the more light-hearted pics, architecture-free, I promise. It's only Part 1, since I am assuming I will see more outrageous things in the coming 3 months.

Of course there were some funny Hello Kitty finds, from donuts to my toothbrush holder:

Dunkin Donuts in Korea - land of the green tea and Hello Kitty donut

...and random household items:

Mops? Slippers? Mop slippers!

The world's smallest ironing board...or largest iron?

Anatomically Correct Hooks

...of course I used them.

Examples of the crazy socks. and YES, of course I bought the monkey butt one!

This freaky cat lurks around our neighborhood, handing out flyers. It reminds me of Stephen King's Sleepwalkers.

And lastly, a guy selling red bean pastries in the shape of poop...and YES, they were actually good!

Some Rice Punch to accommodate the poop pastry

DMC - Trutec Building

2011-10-01T02:26:00.001+09:00

For Technology class this week, we visited the Trutec Building, which is within the DMC (Digital Media City).

DMC is the first high-tech complex in the world for digital technologies. The development's construction started around 2002, and construction is ongoing. The Trutec building is one of many office buildings in the complex. The building, completed in 2007, is designed by Barkow Leibinger Architects, and is composed of a 3-d faceted curtain wall. Frank Barkow is coincidentally the Fumihiko Maki lecturer this semester at Washington University, and the lecture is next month, so hopefully he will talk about the Trutec building!

Andong Cont'd: Hahoe Village

2011-10-01T01:59:00.000+09:00

After Byeongsan Seowon, we headed to our final destination, the Andong Hahoe Village. It's a traditional village from the Joseon Dynasty, and also listed as a UNESCO Heritage site.

The traditional hanok where we stayed overnight

The next morning, a few of us woke up early and walked around. The fog was starting to rise, which made for some eerily cool photos.

Hahoe Traditional Masks

A typical traditional Korean breakfast

The Wishing tree. My Professor: "Hey Anita, you should make a wish for your project."

Rice Paddy fields

Hahoe puppets

Studio Adventure #1: Andong

2011-10-01T01:31:00.001+09:00

This past weekend was brimming with amazing people, places, and of course, food. It's a labor just trying to recount or even remember the names of the places we went, so I'll just be lazy and refer you to Sam's Blog here and here, where she was the more diligent blogger and blogged about it as soon as we got home (unlike me, who is blogging a week later...whoops!)

1) Sosu Seowon Confucian School

2) Buseoksa Temple
Our next stop was Buseoksa, meaning "Temple of the Floating Stone", deriving its name from a rock along the western wall that seems to be floating. If you want a virtual tour of the complex, go here.

The "Floating Stone" inspiring the temple's name

3) Byeongsan Seowon
My favorite place on our way to our final destination. This was a smaller Confucian academy during the Joseon Dynasty. It's not as visited as Sosu Seowon, which made it all the better. We literally raced to beat the sunset to experience the place.

Seoul for 2012!

2011-09-26T02:02:00.000+09:00

In trying to keep the program alive for 2012, I have compiled a video showing just how awesome this program has been in only a MONTH. Enjoy, and tell yo friends!!

Field Trip Week Pt 2: Space Group

2011-09-26T01:55:00.001+09:00

The next day after the Dongdaemun visit, we visited the Space Group building. Space Group is an architecture firm founded by one of the most famous korean architects, Kim Swoo Geun. Built in the 70's, the office building that he designed also happens to be one of the most important modern buildings in Seoul. The building isn't normally open to the public for tours, but we always love to pull the foreign student card!

One small happy family (+ our history professor)

Field Trip Week: Zaha's Dongdaemun

2011-09-26T01:24:00.000+09:00

This week has been absolutely crazy (Note: this can be seen from the furious updates I have been doing, which have been severely delayed due to studio pin-up this past week. So many exciting things happened and we saw so many things, I will try to condense in one post (eek!).

Dongdaemun History and Culture Park: Designed by Zaha Hadid, this museum and park is located in the central location in Dongdaemun shopping district area. It is currently under construction, and we were taken on a tour with the project architect. I asked him about Zaha and her cape, but he said no comment... I think he has him bugged.

Prototype of metal panel cladding

The surrounding context

Structural steel for the future stairs

Ewha Women's University

2011-09-26T01:04:00.000+09:00

Ewha Women's University, the private female university of Seoul, is the location of Dominique Perrault's multipurpose Campus Center. Built within and under the ground plane, it is one of few examples of architecture in Seoul that does not seek to add to the overwhelming skyline of Seoul. It comes off as a simple idea, but I think that is why it works so well.

It feels like a great place to hide away and study. Too bad our own campus doesn't have cool buildings... =(

Hongdae and Hello Kitty

2011-09-26T00:41:00.000+09:00

Hondae, short for Hongik University, is where everyone goes to party. Tons of Westerners, an overwelming amount, head to Hongdae at night as if it was full of bacon or something.

We went over to Hongdae in search for kareoke, food, and a fun time.

Hongdae by night:

BBQ pig skin anyone?

The crazy streets

The next day, we decide to go back to Hongdae to do some shopping. And then I find this... and my childhood obsession comes flooding back.

Door handle detail

Yuval's guest appearance

...Just when I thought I was over Hello Kitty, I came to Korea and it all changed. ahh! and now there's a Hello Kitty store slated to open near my apartment...

A Dose of Rem Koolhaas

2011-09-24T08:40:00.000+09:00

We took the journey to Seoul National University (Korea's most prestigious university, kind of like the "Harvard" of Korea) to find the Rem gem. The Museum of Art is located right at the main entrance. We almost hiked to get there, but gave up and took a cab -- just in time before they closed.

The Gang goes Hiking

2011-09-24T08:24:00.000+09:00

Evan likes to hug trees

View from the top

Koreans take hiking as a serious sport -- they are always dressed to the nines in hiking gear...

Mi Do Tuna

2011-09-18T21:31:00.000+09:00

Just around the corner from our apartment, we have discovered an all-you-can-eat tuna restaurant. Unlike most people, I do not get excited for sushi AT ALL (very un-asian of me, right?), but I will always try anything once. Verdict: delicious!

The key was to eat as much tuna as possible; as each plate was brought out, the cuts of tuna got better and better. Maybe there is hope yet for me and sushi...

Yes, there is a table under there

First cuts of tuna

Second cut of tuna

Cheonggyecheon!

2011-09-18T21:23:00.000+09:00

It's fun to say, and it's a great urban renewl project right in the center of Seoul. The Cheonggyecheon (gaecheon = "open stream") was a stream created during the Joseon Dynasty for city drainage. Later on after the Korean War, the stream became littered with a large influx of people moving into the city, thus polluting the area. In 1958, in an effort to clean the city up, the stream was filled in with concrete and transformed into an elevated highway. Luckily in 2003, there was a major effort to restore the stream to re-introduce nature back into Seoul.

There is criticism about this project, such as though it brings nature back into the city, it is not the most sustainable. In order to maintain this body of water, water has to be manually pumped in. In any case, it does bring people together, and the residents love gathering here.

My new BFF

N Seoul Tower

2011-09-17T11:07:00.000+09:00

If you are in search for one of the best views of Seoul, you have to go to N Seoul Tower, which is located on Namsan mountain. Built in 1969 and then opened to the public in 1980, it is a communication and observation tower as well as one of the prominent symbols of Seoul. Unfortunately we did not go up the tower (which costs about $8 USD), but we were able to watch the tower as the sun set.

We got there by taxi, and then trecked up the steepest hill.

At the observation deck, romance is in the air. People come here to put locks to symbolize love for their significant other or best friends, similar to Cinque Terre.

My new best friends at the drinking fountain

Namdaemun Market

2011-09-17T10:21:00.000+09:00

Namdaemun Market is an old traditional market located next to Namdaemun ("Great Southern Gate"), the southern gate to the ancient city. It's one of the oldest traditional markets in Seoul, and you can imagine how crazy, bustling, and alive it is. People trade street food, clothes, shoes, handbags, kitchenware, fur coats, you name it. It also an area where people buy wholesale items such as fabrics and various other things.

Of course, I choose to document the food. =)

love from seoul

2011-09-14T22:17:00.002+09:00

This is why teleportation needs to be invented. In the meantime, Skype will suffice.

One month in, three more to go...

Heyri Art Village

2011-09-09T18:53:00.000+09:00

After Paju Book City, Junsung took us to Heyri Art Village to see his Heyri Book House, which he designed with SHoP Architects.

Other buildings in the complex...

Camerata -- 1930's style speakers in a cafe; you request a song, and the dj plays it

Unassuming exterior of Camerata

Happy Chuseok!

2011-09-09T18:29:00.000+09:00

I'm sad I missed Labor Day -- nothing like a good ol' American BBQ. Nothing against the great Korean BBQ, but you just can't beat a cheeseburger with REAL cheddar. I had no idea how hard it is to get real cheese...

Cheese on lock-down in the supermarket

I was craving caprese salad. Missing basil =(

To redeem the fact that we missed a great American holiday, the koreans have given us two days off from school this coming monday and tuesday in honor of Chuseok, the harvest festival, or what we call Korean Thanksgiving. Koreans usually take this 3-day holiday to journey back to their hometown to pay respects to their ancestors and elders. It's also a great time to eat delicious food!

Songpyeon, a crescent-shaped rice cake, eaten during Chuseok; they are steamed upon pine needles.

I'm also finding that I'm missing those back home. I received a package from my mom today, with goodies inside:

and yes, skyping these girls makes me miss STL too --

Paju Book City - Mimesis Museum

2011-09-09T18:04:00.002+09:00

Finally. I have been to my first ever Alvaro Siza building. and now I understand what everyone is talking about. Who knew it would have to take me coming to Korea to see a work of one of the most noted Portuguese architects?

Mimesis Museum, designed by Alvaro Siza Arquitecto, just about 30 km NW of Seoul. It is a book publisher's museum housing his private art collection. It is located in the complex of Paju Book City, a new city where many book publishing companies migrated to in efforts in experimenting with a new type of development. It is built on a former landfill; many architects were chosen to design these individual buildings. Our studio professor, Kim Junsung, took us along for a introductory tour of the area as well as a few of his buildings. Kim Junsung worked hand-in-hand with Siza on the Mimesis Museum, and was humble enough to show us around.

Though, it was finished about two years ago, the museum isn't open yet -- the land use is technically for commercial buildings. I think they will soon be able to get a permit to have this building up and functional. For the time being, television crews rent out the space to film dramas and commercials. In fact, they were filming something when we walked in.

Spinning to KPop

2011-09-03T01:10:00.001+09:00

I had no idea it would be so hard to find a gym in Seoul. It seems that koreans aren't as obsessed with being gym rats as Americans are. We managed to find a good gym close to campus. Things that are a little different from home are that most people wear the gym's uniforms, although they are not mandatory (cotton? during a sweaty workout? blech.). There are also these pink flip flops that people use too, which is odd to see in the gym. I thought it was Gym 101 to never wear open-toed shoes to work out? I guess this goes on a list of rules Koreans don't care to follow.

A guy wearing the pink flip flops on the bike

We learned there was spin class, but man, were we in for a surprise. I assumed we'd be spinning to KPop, but I have never spun like this in my life. Back home, spin class consisted of speed workouts as well as hills and whatnot. This spin class consisted of what I can only describe as "dancing" on a bike. The regulars knew the routines by heart -- it was a good thing I was in the back. I give myself a month to start getting the motions right! By far the most favorite Kpop song to spin to came on (Roly Poly) by T-Ara.

Before class starts

Blurry, but i think it captures the craziness

Oh, and did I mention disco lights?

Back to the Studio Grind

2011-09-03T00:52:00.001+09:00

Studio is officially in swing, as well as September. Whew, where did the summer go?! This calls for some cake and champagne, right? At least it does in Korea! Although our studio and classes started last week, Konkuk University officially started their class this week. Their graduate all-school meeting consisted of faculty introductions as well as cake, champagne, donuts and bananas (random at first, but now that I've been here a few weeks, seems ordinary at this point).


Our professors making toast to a new semester.

Our quaint little studio space (first desk crits with Professor Kim)


My slice of pie, window seat


Gettin Crunky up in studio

...And this is how the korean students live in studio. (keyword=live) Nearly everyone lives in their studio space, and it seemed pretty common that the student had their foldable own bed-on-wheels, hangers with clothes, shower caddie, etc. It seems they are caged in... I guess it saves money on rent. The good thing is that there isn't any food allowed in studio spaces. Nothing like some ripe kimchi to ruin the studio environment!


Humble Korean Archie Abode

After studio last week, Professor Kim took us to the "Black Tent." It gets its name from the tent structure that gets pulled out every night from the side of the building. barbeque grills and chairs are pulled out, and voila, instant restaurant. During the day, the structure retracts back into the side of the building. Technically the place's permit is for a "garage," loosely interpreted. I have a feeling we will be frequenting this place a lot =)

Dongdaemun

2011-08-29T03:17:00.001+09:00

KPop plus floors and floors of shopping. Nuff said.

green tea / strawberry soft serve!

nyam nyam

First Glances at Bukchon

2011-08-29T03:09:00.001+09:00

Bukchon is a historic district within the city of Seoul. Bukchon, translated meaning being "Northern Village" is known for its historic hanok village. Hanoks are traditional korean houses, C-shaped in plan. These houses had outdoor courtyards where most of the house's daily activities took place. Many were demolished as land was divided and developed. Luckily some of these hanoks are still preserved, some adapted into restaurants, but some are restored to its original condition to show visitors how these hanoks looked.

This area is full of coffee shops and restaurants as well as many art galleries. And there seems to be a weird fascination with cats...

Street View of part of our Studio project site

Modern addition to Historic Bukchon

Korean Chicken Hop

2011-08-29T02:43:00.002+09:00

So the lightweights of the group decided to do a chicken hop, and sample the plentiful offerings of chicken of various styles and sauces in the neighborhood. I almost jumped out of my pants when I found a Kyochon when walking an alternate route to the Metro stop. I knew there was Kyochon in the states, but never went. There's also Bonchon, but my first taste of Korean Fried Chicken was introduced by my friend Forrest at Mono + Mono in NYC, which was pretty damn good. Now the search was on for something comparable to my recent taste bud experience.

1. Kyochon
PROS: mouthwatering deliciousness; i almost cried. CONS: a bit expensive, some wings were very small, and it took a long time for them to be brought out.
RATING (0-10): 8

First stop, international chain. We opted for the Kyochon Original, which was a honey garlic flavor. Twice fried deliciousness.

Next up...

2. Boor Fried Chicken

PROS: Fast, Cheap

CONS: Tastes like fried chicken back home, but not as good, no flavor, and more starch.

RATING: (1-10) 3

Unlike Kyochon, which was a classy chain, this place is no-frills battered fried chicken. There's a restaurant separate from the takeout area. We opted for the takeout area to make a quick taste. We asked for 4 pieces, he almost fried up 4 BOXES.

side of bag-o-radish

Last stop (we were feeling really fat by now)

3. Oven Day Chicken and Potato ("Every Day Oven Day")

PROS: Fast, Cheap

CONS: Tastes like fried chicken back home, but not as good, no flavor, and more starch.

RATING: (1-10) 6

I was really excited for some good old french fries to go with my roasted chicken, but the fries were covered with some weird sweet powder. what ever happened to salt?? I wasn't satisfied with roast chicken after Kyochon, so my expectations were hard to meet at this point.

So glad Lydia eats fried chicken now!


Two potato sides: fries with the sweet powder stuff, and potato wedges with some kind of mayo

Verdict? Tabled. I think we need to test a few more out to get a good median going for judging criteria. It's only fair, right?

This place will definitely be on the list, especially with that mascot:

"So hot, I burned his asshole"

Kimbap + other must eats

2011-08-24T14:19:00.003+09:00

Highlights on some good eats, all of which are korean staples:

kimbap (김밥): rice rolls with ham and imitation crab
korean bbq (고기구이): hot plate with pork, mushrooms, kimchi, ttoboki, bean sprouts
ttoboki (또보기): rice cakes, with sweet/spicy sauce
korean fried chicken (양념 치킨) from Kyochon: honey garlic, twice-fried chicken, served with a side of pickled radishes

First Taste of Seoul

2011-08-18T18:38:00.005+09:00

It's been a rainy few days; today was cloudy but at least dry. We've had a tiring but action-packed few days, so I'll show you some snippets to visually stimulate what we have seen this week.

from top left (clockwise): 1) traditional temple detail, 2) lotus flower lamps on ceiling of buddhist temple, 3) concrete wall inside our favorite cafe, Coffee Market, 4) stairwell inside Leeum Samsung Museum of Art, Museum 1, by Mario Botta, 5) Entrance into Leeum Samsung. OMA

from top left (clockwise): 1) koreans love waffles, but the coffee is surprisingly expensive here, 2) Kimchi Pancake, 3) Cinnamon Punch garnished with pine nuts, at Insadong Hanuk Traditional Teahouse, 4) Sitting on the floors to eat will take some getting used to, 5) Spicy Pork wrapped in sesame leaf, 6) Korean hot pot


My little apatu (apartment)

bathroom

"Where is the tub," you ask? Well, in Korea the shower is the entire room. There is simply one dedicated drain on the floor, and a shower head connected to the sink head. It's a little awkward, since you end up hovering by the toilet during showers... and the seal by the door isn't exactly watertight.

Brilliant invention find of the week:

Mop Slippers!

Annyeong Haseyo!

2011-08-15T22:42:00.003+09:00

Our 'hood

Second day in Seoul, and it's been good so far. A bit of adjustments to get used to. It still seems like I'm in a very congested part of Northern Virginia, where koreans are H-Marts are everywhere.

Yesterday we bought our "beds," called yos, which are really cushions, or in reference to the one I settled on, a glorified puffy comforter. More pics of the actual apartment in the next post.

It's been great to have Sung, our resident korean coordinator, who has been our translator, apartment coordinator, tour guide, and superhero. Yesterday we bought bedding and other random apartment stuff, but most importantly, laundry detergent. The trek from Thailand made our beachy clothes smell less than desirable.

In our zombie-like state, it was a wonder how we got so much done.

Everything had flowers. EVERYTHING.

Sung (right) helping us pick the right yo

Main drag of food that is close to our apts

Mandu -- my first meal in Seoul

Delicious Noodles

Our first visit to the E Mart

Asia Pregame - Thailand Recap

2011-08-15T13:09:00.006+09:00

I'm currently sitting in the Seoul Incheon Airport, waiting patiently with Lydia for the others to arrive. I'm glad Frankenstein (my new name for my computer) is still intact and functional, so I think a blog entry is in order.

This past week the five of us from the Seoul program (Lydia, Sam, Natasha, Evan) took on Thailand, or at least a small part of it. It was a great experience, even better than I had expected. I was the last one of the pack to get in, but it was a relief to be in familiar company after what seemed like 24 hours of traveling.

First day consisted of traveling again: traveling from Bangkok airport to the Krabi Airport, only then to ride a series of shuttles and vans to what we prayed was our final destination. I guess I watch too many movies that involve tourists and imminent doom, so we all had thai paranoia on the brain ("Scam! Scam! Scam!"). After what seemed like a three hour van ride (with two ferries) we finally arrived in Koh Lanta.

View from our Resort in Koh Lanta

View of our Resort

Fried Rice with Pineapple? How about fried rice IN pineapple?

Most delicious Tom Yum Gai

Other great highlights were our private Longtail boat ride to Koh Phi Phi (more notably known for where "The Beach" was filmed). We got to check out the beach, but left when it got suffocatingly congested with tourists.

Walking thru "street" in Koh Phi Phi (Pronounced "Pee-Pee")

Koh Phi Phi docks

Part of the Phi Phi beach

The boat trip exceeded my expectations when we got to island hop and then even snorkel. We left the crowded beaches, jumped back onto the longtail boats, and went around the island to other more remote parts...

Bird's Eye View of one of the pocket beaches we stopped by

My private island, nbd

Swimming and snorkeling with the fishies

on the Longtail Boat

After a few days at our hub in Koh Lanta, we ventured on our last day to Ao Nang. This place was much more of a tourist-driven locale, with usual annoying banter and calls to people to come into their stores. I loved Koh Lanta for not being that way. Thailand was topped off by kayaking with the girls in the morning... and who knew it was where Mortal Kombat was filmed?!? (which we were coincidentally watching when we came back from kayaking).


MORTAL KOMBATTTT!


Pic of me, courtesy of Lydia


Longtail boats at bay in Ao Nang

Doesn't look scary? Try walking on that with flip flops, along with the fear of feral monkeys.

First kayaking experience, check.

Sunburn in process

...mortal kombat!!

At the Krabi Airport. Best picture of the trip!

A few sunburns later, our Thai journey comes to an end. Thailand, it's been real. Sawasdee!

Money Wired, Apt. Finally Secured

2011-08-02T03:41:00.004+09:00

I've never wired money internationally in my life, but today was the day. After giving up on trying to look for other options (thinking my asian ways and korean peeps connections would find me something cheaper), I succumbed to going to easier route and getting the apartment that our school-deemed organizer found for us. Me being the cheapskate (reference to asian ways) I always think there's always something better. Oh well, at least I'll be in the same building as my WUSTL people.

So, upon getting further information about the address of our building, I did what any other person would do upon slamming down a few G's for a place 7,000 miles away: Google Mapped it.

...and zoomed a little closer...

I was first impressed that there are about 5 7-Elevens within walking distance from our building... and as for those swastikas, let's hope those are buddhist temples.

In any case, this is making the excitement exponentially higher. In exactly two weeks, I will be in Seoul. gahhh!!