anita in seoul: food

Showing posts with label food. Show all posts

"Millions of Kimchi"

[and now, for guest post by Dan, one of my partners in crime in Seoul. He was lucky enough to witness kimchi, live in the act of making.]

“Millions of peaches, peaches for me, Millions of peaches, peaches for free”

… if the Presidents of the USA were a Korean band, they would have written about kimchi, not peaches… “Millions of kimchi, kimchi for free” (though they’d probably have a different band name too). So so much kimchi, and always for free.

It was a nice distraction during my final week in Seoul to witness the making of a batch of kimchi right
out my apartment window. The owner of the restaurant that was making it is a very well respected
woman in the neighborhood, so it appeared that many people came out to help in the process. I feel
fortunate to have become friends with her. Even though we could not talk to each other, we seemed to
have been able to communicate successfully. She took good care of me, I’ll always be grateful for her
kindness.

I like kimchi, though I have become slightly picky, as each restaurant’s is a little bit different, so some I
find more to my tasting. As I always have at least one bite of the various banchans provided, I always
finished my kimchi. It will be interesting to see how I find the taste of kimchi back in the USA.

All these awesome photos courtesy of Dan.

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Back Stateside -- Honey Pig

Last night I ventured with friends (and Living Social voucher) to the Honey Pig in Ellicott City. I'm still in the afterglow of a great four months in Korea, so of course, I was a skeptic.

Before we walked in, the groups of people waiting were bursting out the door! Me having #gradstudentproblems, mumbled, "If this was Korea, we'd just walk to the place next door." Of course it was because Honey Pig sold a ridiculous amount of discount vouchers, but also because Honey Pig is now known for THE place to eat BBQ in the DC/Maryland/Virginia area.

Verdict: the place was delicious. I will always love a place with delicious pork belly. I was in great company with two good friends, so the time was well spent on eating meat and dishing dirt.

The Pros:

1) MEAT. Grilled. Duh!

2) It's open 24 Hours.

3) There's Korean beer! Yay, more Cass!!

4) the exhaust system seems to work more than the ones did in Seoul. I did the sniff test on my clothes after, and it wasn't too bad!

But... being fresh out of Korea, there were some cons:

1) They don't let you cut and cook your own meat! (I do understand it's probably better this way since some people don't know how to properly man the griddle...but still.... i would have liked the option to DIY)

2) The line was horrendous. We waited like 40 minutes for a table (Ok, they made bank doing that living social deal... and apparently they give 25% off the entire bill if the Redskins win.)

3) The location is in a strip mall. The great thing about the BBQ places in Seoul were that they were smack dab in the middle of the city, so you can stumble out of dinner and down the street to a bar afterwards.

4) The sparse banchan... left so much more to be desired. what happened to the mounds and mounds of kimchi and seasoned bean sprouts! They don't serve their korean peppers whole -- they're sliced.

5) No wet naps?! Koreaaaaa, come back to me. Those were the best things ever / no-brainers for a restaurant where you eat with your hands.

Again, I am being too critical. It was a delicious BBQ meal, and just makes me reflective of the awesome culinary times I had. Can't wait to do it again. I need to brush up on my korean food words again!

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Final Review

There are a few basic rules of studio I always try to tell myself to keep no matter what:

1) Always maintain a regular shower regimen. No one likes greasy hair (among other things)

2) Try to get sleep every day. Yes, naps (meaning 0-3 hrs of sleep) do count.

3) Always leave studio before the sun rises.

Well, at least I kept up with rules #1 & 3. The day of final review, I had been up for around 36 hours already, and running on adrenaline. I promised myself I'd finish that 1/50 scale model before I went home, which I did. I walked home a few hours before review to accomplish Rule #1, and eat. I had thoroughly impressed myself with how I had survived in the past three weeks with such lack of sleep, and I must admit, I was getting delirious towards the last night, especially when I was the only one left in studio.

I was third to present, and I presented without coffee coursing through my veins, which was surprising to me. My tactic to stay awake was not to wear a jacket. It was bloody freezing in the presentation space (Koreans, ever heard of proper insulation?!?). After taping (masking tape, classy) my boards to the wall, my brain went dead. I couldn't seem to mentally prepare my thoughts, so I said to myself, "I guess I'm winging this thing again."

Somehow I pulled it off because afterwards my professor said to me," I don't know how you pulled it off, but you did!" Comments from the jury were all positive; and I was glad I made that big model. It's good to finally get an overall good review after a blood-sweat-tears kind of semester.

Me trying to gather my thoughts

Showing my stitchwork, done with lack of sleep

One happy Seoul studio (afterwards of course)

Our last time at the Black Tent

After BBQ we walked to another place to have drinks. On the way, I walked beside Junsung and asked him if he was going to miss us American kids.

He replied: "Oh yes, or course. My body will not have the ability to NOT miss you all. You know, before you guys came, I was really discouraged with teaching the Korean students. They aren't easily self-inspired or self-motivated; it's really hard to teach them. After teaching you guys, I have more of a motivation and inspiration to keep teaching."

I was really moved by that. Junsung is usually a very dramatic person when it comes to expressing his feelings about architecture and whatnot, but I really felt that he was being really candid. I'm glad we could affect a professor just as much as they have affected us.

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Meat Buffet and Black Market Books

It definitely wasn't the typical finals week. It of course included sleep deprivation, malnourishment and lots of caffeine, but it also had it's surprise perks, such as going to the all-you-can-eat meat buffet with my professor and his korean students, and of course, the best thing of all, the korean "bookstore."

Here we are at the "Self Bar", what they call the all you can eat meat bar. The meat cuts aren't the greatest, but it fits the hungry korean college male student's needs. The kid in the blue puffy jacket (never did remember his name) was literally inhaling the meat.

Another night, we meet up with the "Book Guy." One of our korean student friends has the hook up, and just calls a guy. The guy comes at night in his SUV, backs into the loading area (or parking lot) and opens his back trunk and BAM! Christmas came early for us architecture nerds.

Nope. Not sketchy at all. White SUVs mean safety.

Yep, maybe we were a little excited. and all got Phylogenesis.

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Korean Thanksgiving

NOTE: I am horrendously behind on posts, so bear with me. Let's travel back to Thanksgiving....
________
After classes, we hopped on the train to have dinner at our professor's apartment. His wife was so kind as to cook every single dish. I felt kind of bad because our one task was to find a turkey, and we failed on that account. We were counting on the service that Yongsan Military Base used to have, which was selling roasted turkeys at the base gate for outsiders to pick up. Well, apparently, they discontinued that service in 2009, and the other option of ordering from a hotel was too expensive and too short of notice.

As we entered the apartment, we were welcomed with the wafting smells of bulgogi. We had tons of other great korean food, including japchae, kimbap, fried seaweed, chicken skewers, among other things. The professors were bringing out the big guns -- Junsung with delicious french wine, and Mark with a spanish (read: molotov) cocktail.

Cheers to the cook, Junsung's wife!

The Three Stooges

Marc's Spanish drink: 2 bottles of rum + lemon peel, cinnamon stick, coffee beans. Lit on FIRE!

The bowl cracked under the heat... so we salvage the liquor by siphoning it through a cheescloth

...and then used a cooking pan instead. architects are dumb.

full from korean goodness + french wine + spanish liquor concoction

massage train! Our goofy professors in the front

This meal was exaclt what I needed to get through the rest of the semester. At one part of the meal I was chatting with Junsung, our korean professor, and he was reminiscing about his time with Alvaro Siza. He said that Siza was asked, "Do you love architecture?", to which he responded with a reaction like "Love? Love is a strong word. I don't Love architecture. I like architecture sometimes...Man doesn't exist for architecture. Architecture exists for man."

Junsung said it meant that architecture shouldn't be your life -- it shouldn't be the all-consuming, end-all THING that is the only thing that matters. How then can we even enjoy what we are pouring our efforts in for our entire lives? How can we enjoy our life? So, in order to enjoy architecture (or anything you have a passion for really) you need to not have it be your LIFE.

This is expecially true now that I am in Seoul; it's been clearer to be since I am geographically away from St. Louis. If I constantly remind myself this everyday, I think it would be a great, constantly humbling thing that brings be back to earth. I think we all get caught up in this academic bubble of working nonstop for some convoluted goal of "finishing" a project without even enjoying the process itself.

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Going Vegetarian

I think it can be extremely challenging to be a vegetarian in a place where culture is formed around barbequing meat, but I think it is possible.

After a field trip by Donguk University, our professor treated us to a traditional vegetarian feast. It was the most banchan I have had yet in Korea, and it was amazing! I think I counted almost 60 different bowls and plates on the table.

Some of the food included a sesame porridge, leek and kimchi pancakes, japchae, fried lotus root, make-your-own bibimbap, tofu soup, etc. The meal was ended with delicious ginger tea.

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Koreans and Coffee Shops

Koreans are serious about coffee --- at least that's what they want to be seen as. Coffee shops are "all the rage", and saying that they are a trend is conveying the craze too lightly.

Of course there is the obligatory Starbucks, Dunkin Dunuts, and even Mister Donut (a super throwback that I remember was around in the States in the 80's). Then there are the coffee shops that swear they brew authentic italian and french roasts, and have the Italian & french names. There is apparentely a bakery war going on between the two main "french"y bakeries in Korea: Tous Les Jours vs. Paris Baguette. Apparently, back in January of this year, a baker at Tous Les Jours that was going bankrupt tried a last ditch effort to bring down its competitor across the street, Paris Baguette, by baking a dead rat in a loaf of bread...

She really likes baguettes.

Tous Les Jours is bringing in the superpowers of Korean Drama and KPop as leverage...

Actress Ku Hye Sun & Popstar Rain, matching of course

C'mon. Rain wants to eat a donut. He promises the calories don't count.

I must say, both places do well on the pastries. Almost too good.

Aside from the coffee shops itself, let me get to the real reason why I'm writing this post in the first place.

Whenever I'm sitting in a coffee shop doing some work (taking a breather from studio), I happen to always observe Koreans and their unique behavior. First of all, they do not treat cafes and coffee shops as Americans do -- American students go to the coffee shop to get a calm ambiance with coffee and light jazz floating through the air, promoting optimum productivity for a college student. A korean student treats the coffee shop as two things: 1) a bar, where you gather with your friends and gab and chatter loudly and smoke while listening to loud-ass pop music, and 2) a place to lovingly stare into your significant other's eyes for hours while sipping frappaccinos and taking photos of each other.

But today, I witness the most annoying thing...

This guy and his friends are taking photos of the coffee and the pastries they just bought... for 20 minutes. Okay, I admit, i take photos of most meals I've had here, but this was just absurd. So, of course, I had to take a picture of the asian guy taking a picture of the food. I thought I was being super slick holding up my phone acting like was texting.

And then after 20 minutes, they got up, and moved to another table. I'm thinking, "what? they need better light or something? what creeps."

...and then I realized there was a mirror behind me.

Who's the creep now?

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Happy Millennium Pepero Day!

In celebration of 11/11/11, Korea celebrated Millennium Pepero Day! Usually every year on 11/11, Lotte invented this holiday as a marketing scheme to shamelessly promote the sales of Pepero, the delicious chocolate pretzel stick snack. It's Korean's version of Pocky, which is the original Japanese snack. It's a huge craze over this stuff. People are even in the street selling Pepero-shaped pillows.

It's best equated to Valentine's Day, where everyone is pressured to buy these sweets for their friends and sweethearts. Everywhere I looked, there were stands with elaborate displays of Pepero.

Some people say that Koreans are obsessed with the 11/11 holiday because of good luck of course, but also they love couples events, and love the number 1. One is the skinniest number, and koreans always love to be number 1 ranking in everything.... not exactly sure about that analysis, but I know they are all suckers for marketing schemes. I took a iPad survey, just to get a free box...

I wanted a bigger box, but this will do

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Tokyo: Tsukiji Fish Market

Sushi for breakfast? YES, please.

Okay, foodies, wake up. I know I've been posting my head off about architecture lately, but now I am going to redeem myself.

We arrived in Tokyo October 20th, and decided that that famous fish market was our first destination. At this point we were architecture-ed out. We weren't hardcore enough to wake up and get to Tsukiji Fish Market at 5am to see the tuna auction, but we did wake up in time to get a spot in like for sushi for breakfast.

During the ~2 hour wait, I meandered through the fish market ---

At 9am, the craziness has started to die down. Fish are being packed and shipped.

What's crazy is, although there's fish everywhere, the place smelled surprisingly un-fishy. As if the fish was so fresh, it wasn't fishy. I was expecting the smell when you walk by NYC Chinatown, where the sidewalks are washed with fish guts.

This crab didn't stand a chance. Poor thing, battered alive, still moving.

I head back to our spot in line at Sushi Dai, which is supposedly the best-kept secret at Tsukiji. It's not in the American tourist books (it may be in the chinese ones...) but he heard of it through word of mouth, the best way to get delicious food. When you see japanese businessmen with their luggage waiting in line, you know it's worth the wait.

The velvet ropes...for only a part of the line; the rest wrapped around the block.

FINALLY! We got in! Higher wooden ledge is your "plate" where they place the sushi.

Now, let me just say, before I came to Asia, I absolutely HATED sushi. I hated the fishy aftertaste, the idea of eating raw fish, everything... I know, a very un-asian characteristic (along with no skill for playing any musical instrument). But then I discovered how delicious tuna was. And then, I went to Tsukiji.

I documented in sequence each delicious morsel, but can't remember exactly which fish was what. Here's what I remember:

1) Tuna (fatty)
2) Yellowtail?
3) ?

4) Spanish mackerel

5) Tuna (lean)

6) ?

[breathe]

7) tekkamacki - tuna rolls

8) tamago - sweet egg custard

9) japanese eel

When I ate the last one, the eel, my tastebuds were very happy. I literally left there smiling, it was so damn good.

What a way to take Tokyo by storm!

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The Japan Chronicles: Kyoto

Kyoto was also a surprise, just as Osaka was. When we emerged from the train station, we were met with another hodgepodge modernized city. We went in search for the historical sites.

Ryoanji Temple - Rock Garden

The rock garden is composed of 15 rocks -- it is said that one seeks enlightenment from humanity and suffering if they can see all rocks with their naked eye. It is only humanly possible to see 14 of the 15 rocks at a glance. So, we have to accept our humanity as it is...or something like that.

Rock Garden

The next day, we went to Kinkaku-ji (Golden Pavilion).

It was first built as a "retirement home" of sorts for a statesman named Saionji Kintsune; it was later purchased by a shogun family. It was originally only painted in gold leaf on the third floor; in 1950, it was burned to the ground by a young monk. When the pavilion was restored, all levels were made golden.