Korean Thanksgiving

Korean Thanksgiving

NOTE: I am horrendously behind on posts, so bear with me. Let's travel back to Thanksgiving....
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After classes, we hopped on the train to have dinner at our professor's apartment. His wife was so kind as to cook every single dish. I felt kind of bad because our one task was to find a turkey, and we failed on that account. We were counting on the service that Yongsan Military Base used to have, which was selling roasted turkeys at the base gate for outsiders to pick up. Well, apparently, they discontinued that service in 2009, and the other option of ordering from a hotel was too expensive and too short of notice.

As we entered the apartment, we were welcomed with the wafting smells of bulgogi. We had tons of other great korean food, including japchae, kimbap, fried seaweed, chicken skewers, among other things. The professors were bringing out the big guns -- Junsung with delicious french wine, and Mark with a spanish (read: molotov) cocktail.

Cheers to the cook, Junsung's wife!

The Three Stooges

Marc's Spanish drink: 2 bottles of rum + lemon peel, cinnamon stick, coffee beans. Lit on FIRE!

The bowl cracked under the heat... so we salvage the liquor by siphoning it through a cheescloth

...and then used a cooking pan instead. architects are dumb.

full from korean goodness + french wine + spanish liquor concoction

massage train! Our goofy professors in the front

This meal was exaclt what I needed to get through the rest of the semester. At one part of the meal I was chatting with Junsung, our korean professor, and he was reminiscing about his time with Alvaro Siza. He said that Siza was asked, "Do you love architecture?", to which he responded with a reaction like "Love? Love is a strong word. I don't Love architecture. I like architecture sometimes...Man doesn't exist for architecture. Architecture exists for man."

Junsung said it meant that architecture shouldn't be your life -- it shouldn't be the all-consuming, end-all THING that is the only thing that matters. How then can we even enjoy what we are pouring our efforts in for our entire lives? How can we enjoy our life? So, in order to enjoy architecture (or anything you have a passion for really) you need to not have it be your LIFE.

This is expecially true now that I am in Seoul; it's been clearer to be since I am geographically away from St. Louis. If I constantly remind myself this everyday, I think it would be a great, constantly humbling thing that brings be back to earth. I think we all get caught up in this academic bubble of working nonstop for some convoluted goal of "finishing" a project without even enjoying the process itself.

T-Minus 11 Days Left

T-Minus 11 Days Left

Yesterday was Thanksgiving, but it didn't feel like it, mainly because we had two classes. It's my first time in my life that I have been apart from my family on Thanksgiving. It's kind of sad, but in a way I am relieved because the pressures that loom during the thanksgiving holiday during school is usually immense; there's always that inner struggle of whether to go home, and if you go home, will there be time to get work done?

My crits with Junsung in the past weeks have been interesting. I think he is a great person to talk to, and you immediately feel his passion for architecture, especially the sensuality of it. This week there were tons of changes that he told me I should consider. I'm usually calm through my crits, but I was at a breaking point. This was last Tuesday.

Jun: "You should really change this part right here... and here... and here... and it would be really wonderful if you...add secret stair...moonbounce..."  (secret stair, yes... moonbounce..i wish)
Me: "TOO LATE JUN! Too late for changes!"
Jun: "No, it's not too late. You have three more weeks."
Me: "Are you crazy?! We have a week and a half!"
Jun: "Oh...well you should change it. And take this stair out. It sucks. It reallllly sucks. I never liked it."
Me:"Why didn't you tell me two weeks ago??" Sighs. "Yes, I guess you are right."

I never like to hide within any bad project, to I bit the bullet and made the changes, which of course made my project better. I hate when people hide from their professors because they might "change everything." Isn't this why we are all slaving away in architecture prison school to begin with? Make ourselves better designers?

Anyways, yesterday's crit with Jun gave me some hope. After I showed him some changes, he says--

Jun: "Your project is really developing nicely. If you had three more weeks, it would be really fantastic."
Me: "Yeah...but I don't."
Jun: "I know. I know."
Me: "Thank you?"


Another post to follow about Thanksgiving dinner!

Going Vegetarian

Going Vegetarian

I think it can be extremely challenging to be a vegetarian in a place where culture is formed around barbequing meat, but I think it is possible.

After a field trip by Donguk University, our professor treated us to a traditional vegetarian feast. It was the most banchan I have had yet in Korea, and it was amazing! I think I counted almost 60 different bowls and plates on the table.

Some of the food included a sesame porridge, leek and kimchi pancakes, japchae, fried lotus root, make-your-own bibimbap, tofu soup, etc. The meal was ended with delicious ginger tea.

Koreans and Coffee Shops

Koreans and Coffee Shops

Koreans are serious about coffee --- at least that's what they want to be seen as. Coffee shops are "all the rage", and saying that they are a trend is conveying the craze too lightly.

Of course there is the obligatory Starbucks, Dunkin Dunuts, and even Mister Donut (a super throwback that I remember was around in the States in the 80's). Then there are the coffee shops that swear they brew authentic italian and french roasts, and have the Italian & french names. There is apparentely a bakery war going on between the two main "french"y bakeries in Korea: Tous Les Jours vs. Paris Baguette. Apparently, back in January of this year, a baker at Tous Les Jours that was going bankrupt tried a last ditch effort to bring down its competitor across the street, Paris Baguette, by baking a dead rat in a loaf of bread...

She really likes baguettes.

Tous Les Jours is bringing in the superpowers of Korean Drama and KPop as leverage...

Actress Ku Hye Sun & Popstar Rain, matching of course

C'mon. Rain wants to eat a donut. He promises the calories don't count.

I  must say, both places do well on the pastries. Almost too good.

 

Aside from the coffee shops itself, let me get to the real reason why I'm writing this post in the first place.

Whenever I'm sitting in a coffee shop doing some work (taking a breather from studio), I happen to always observe Koreans and their unique behavior. First of all, they do not treat cafes and coffee shops as Americans do -- American students go to the coffee shop to get a calm ambiance with coffee and light jazz floating through the air, promoting optimum productivity for a college student. A korean student treats the coffee shop as two things:   1) a bar, where you gather with your friends and gab and chatter loudly and smoke while listening to loud-ass pop music, and 2) a place to lovingly stare into your significant other's eyes for hours while sipping frappaccinos and taking photos of each other.

But today, I witness the most annoying thing...

This guy and his friends are taking photos of the coffee and the pastries they just bought... for 20 minutes. Okay, I admit, i take photos of most meals I've had here, but this was just absurd. So, of course, I had to take a picture of the asian guy taking a picture of the food. I thought I was being super slick holding up my phone acting like was texting.

And then after 20 minutes, they got up, and moved to another table. I'm thinking, "what? they need better light or something? what creeps."

...and then I realized there was a mirror behind me.

Who's the creep now?

The Fascination with Trash and Old People

The Fascination with Trash and Old People

I present to you one of Korea's cultural phenomenons -- the fascination with trash. And old people. Mostly the "Ajuma" (old woman) are the ones always crouching down in the streets, collecting trash.

Here is what surprises me everyday about the trash situation in Seoul --

1) The Bar Scene: at night, trash and call girl cards are strewn about all over the streets (not to mention vomit and other questionable things)... but in the morning, the old people are up by 7am and picking up the trash with their brooms and bare hands. I'm pretty sure not all of them are hired by the government.

2) The Leaves: ever since the first foliage fall, every single day, every single wind blow, they are there to sweep it up. They also love to collect the stinky gingko fruit, too. Not quite sure what they do with it.

3) Trash Day: Usually every trash day, while I am walking out the door to class or out for a run, there's always an ajuma rustling in the back of our building, opening knotted trash bags in search for any treasures. They're mostly looking for cardboard, which I think they can turn in and receive money depending on the weight.

While walking to school one morning last week, I found the ultimate Ajuma, on a mission:

Oh, probably the trashman doing his rounds already...

Hmm...it's no trashman... this ajuma's been busy, and she just found the cardboard motherload

 These old people on a mission are usually equipped with these makeshift carts where they tie the cardboard they collect on the street. They're Public Enemy #2 after Taxi trivers, in that they will run over you with their carts and keep it moving.

I guess it's a good system for free street-cleaning services, but I always wonder why these old people are just so bored that this is what consumes their time.

Happy Millennium Pepero Day!

Happy Millennium Pepero Day!

In celebration of 11/11/11, Korea celebrated Millennium Pepero Day! Usually every year on 11/11, Lotte invented this holiday as a marketing scheme to shamelessly promote the sales of Pepero, the delicious chocolate pretzel stick snack. It's Korean's version of Pocky, which is the original Japanese snack. It's a huge craze over this stuff. People are even in the street selling Pepero-shaped pillows.

It's best equated to Valentine's Day, where everyone is pressured to buy these sweets for their friends and sweethearts. Everywhere I looked, there were stands with elaborate displays of Pepero.

Some people say that Koreans are obsessed with the 11/11 holiday because of good luck of course, but also they love couples events, and love the number 1. One is the skinniest number, and koreans always love to be number 1 ranking in everything.... not exactly sure about that analysis, but I know they are all suckers for marketing schemes. I took a iPad survey, just to get a free box...

I wanted a bigger box, but this will do

Seoul Lantern Festival

Seoul Lantern Festival

Every year, Seoul pulls of a great lantern festival. Large lanterns are lit up and positioned on the water of the Cheonggycheon (as I have written about earlier). This year's theme for the lanterns were "Moments in History." It was great to see such a beautiful site, and it was a great excuse to take a break from work.

The big Haechi, the new mascot of Seoul

Most famous lantern of the show was Gwanghamun, one of the 5 imperial gates

Plugged in on the Seoul Subway

Plugged in on the Seoul Subway

When I first came to Korea, I was so shocked at how everyone is so obsessed with their mobile phones and ipods. I thought America was bad.

Everyone usually has two devices -- cell phone, and ipod. I have never ridden the subway without seeing someone with their phones out, furiously texting, or totally engrossed with korean TV. Most phones used here come with a retractable antenna (this is the 21st century, right?) to catch the signal of free TV. Someone could be watching korean drama, catching up with the stock exchange, or watching a basebal game. 

This is a pretty typical sight when I ride the subway. This photo might not look bad, but image the entire train cabin looks like this. 

These people are practically zombies -- I've seen people board and leave a train without taking their eyes off their phones!

But I do admit, I catch myself whipping out my IPhone as well as pulling out my korean cell phone at the same time to return a text. What am I turning into?!

Fall in Seoul!

Fall in Seoul!

Fall is officially in full swing, but it doesn't feel like it. It was chilly when we came back from our trip to Japan a few weeks ago, but the temperature has risen back up to what we'd expect in early September. We've been averaging a mild 70-73F temperature with hardly any rain, so I guess I shouldn't complain!

One thing that I'm missing from this fall -- the vibrant orange and reds that I see back home and in St. Louis. Most of the trees on campus are gingkos, which change to yellow.

The allee of trees that I walk through everyday to class

Heading to the arch bldg!

Here's a look at the outdoor walkway where people congregate; this is the old people loitering spot.

"They see me rollin, they hatin"

"Deloris! We were supposed to match from top to bottom today! You forgot the visor!"

Changing of the Guards

Changing of the Guards

On our way to a field trip, we happened upon the changing of the guards ceremony at one of the gates at Geongbuk Palace. I've been wanting to go see this since I got to Korea, and it was even better that we saw it by accident. We walked by towards the end, when the guards had been swapped out and the relieved guards were marching back.

Weird Signs in Tokyo

Weird Signs in Tokyo

Here's a few pictures of the interesting signs we saw in Tokyo. In Seoul we see some pretty random public signs and advertisements, but it seems that the Japanese like to have fun with their signs.

We shouldn't be smoking on the train anyway right?

Not quite sure what you may drop when you risk walking and smoking at the same time...

the walk home from studio

the walk home from studio

I guess I'm usually too preoccupied in my head to enjoy the walk home from studio in the middle of the night, but tonight, there seemed to be something charming in the air about it.

Maybe it was also me re-evaluating in my head exactly how long I've been in Seoul -- It's been about 2-1/2 months... which may not seem so much to you, but to me, it feels like it was eons since I was soaking in the sun in Thailand.

So I pack up my things as my eyes droop, and start the journey home. The sky has the weird purple tint to it again, but I don't bother taking a picture because no photo I've taken thus far has given it justice. There's someone lurking in the shadows, but then it turns out that it's one of those goofy night security guys picking something off the ground and muttering to himself. I decide to take the quieter way home, the back alleys where it seems everyone is asleep. It's dark, quiet, and a person or two walking. And then I think to myself, once I go back home to the states, there probably will be no other place where I can walk home without any fear of things lurking in the shadows (St. Louis? You can forget about it.)

The usual stray cat scurries by; a guy with headphones in is standing and searching for his keys (i'm thinking, i could mug this guy he is so vulnerable), and then I pass our corner store, where, under the lamplight,  the middle-aged men are gathered around the red plastic lawn furniture, smoking, and talking about something intriguing. As I round the corner to the apartment, I hear the echos of hiccuping coming down the street. It's a businessman with his briefcase, staggering, stopping, staggering, and hiccuping loud enough that it's starting to echo down the street. All this goes on as some young girl is leaned on the side of my apartment, seeming like she doesn't notice the hiccuping man, but rather is whispering into her cell phone.

And then I'm home. Whoa, I'm home.